Saturday, October 31, 2009

EQC: Italy and the Trip Home (May and June, 1910)

Edwin Q. Cannon, Wilford Cannon, Archie Brockbank and Clarence (Clix) Wright continued their trip which had taken them from Vienna, to Constantinople, to Athens, to Cairo, to Jerusalem and now to Italy. They went to Naples, Pompeii and Rome, then Ed and Archie left Wilf and Clix in Rome (presumably so that they could go back to missionary work) to travel to Florence, Venice and Milan. There Ed left Archie and traveled back to Zurich, the Swiss German Mission headquarters, where he began his travels back home, with stops in New York, Washington, D.C., where he met President Taft, and to Chicago, where his journal ends.

May 24, 1910 (Tuesday): (Port Said)

We arrived at Port Said at 7.00 A.M. and left for Alexandria at 4 P.M. Our fare Jaffa to Alexandria 2d class was 46.80 francs and from Alexandria to Naples 3rd class 60 marks.

May 25, 1910 (Wednesday): (Alexandria)

We arrived at Alexandria at 7 A.M. Wilford and Archie B. had a boat-man transfer them and our baggage to the ship with which we sailed to Naples and Clarence W. and I went to the German Lloyd office and got our tickets. After getting our places on the boat we all went in town and got dinner. Our ship the Schleswig left the quay at 2 P.M. Our quarters on the boat are fairly clean, but I’d rather not travel 3rd class again.

May 26, 1910 (Thursday): (Boat to Naples)

There is a big bunch of Americans with us in 3rd class who are returning home from the Fillipines where they’ve been serving in various government positions.

May 27, 1910 (Friday): (Boat to Naples)

So far we have had a very pleasant voyage. Our meals are fairly good and the weather has been fine and the Schleswig is an easy sailor. I read Bulwar’s Paul Clifford yester-day and to-day.

May 28, 1910 (Saturday): (Naples)

We passed through the Streights of Messina this morning about 2 O’Clock. I staid up until we could see the lights of Messina in the distance. We passed the voulcano Strombouli about 7.30 A.M. There is quite a cloud of smoke issuing from its crator. We landed at Naples about 4.30 P.M. and engaged rooms at the Pension Francaise. We have a dandy view of the bay from our window. We are paying 8 __ per day for pension. We walked around town for a while this evening.

May 29, 1910 (Sunday): (Naples, Mt. Vesuvius)

This fore-noon we went through the National Museum. There are some very famous old pieces of sculpture here and very many things found in Pompeii. This afternoon we went up to the top of Mt. Vesuvius. It was a very hard climb and we were next to exhausted when we got up there. There was quite a bit of smoke arising from various places around the edge of the crater. Our trip up and back cost us 35 centines car fare out to Pugliano and we hired a guide for 2.50 fr. and paid 2.50 each gov’t farrie to get to the top. The trip took us about 6 ½ hours.

May 30, 1910 (Monday): (Naples, Pompeii, Rome)

We went out to Pompeii about 10 A.M. after having taken our baggage to the depot. The fare out there and back cost us 2.60 fr. each. In Pompeii we visited the baths, the theatre, and a number of residences
among them the house of the tragic poet, then the amphitheatre.
We also watched them excavate for a while. It is certainly interesting to see how well preserved most of the walls are. We returned to Naples about 5 P.M., ate supper and left for Rome at 6.50 P.M. We arrived in Rome 11:15 P.M. and came to the Pension Boos.

May 31, 1910 (Tuesday): (Rome)

We went down to Cooks’ this fore-noon and I received a registered letter confirming a check for 2180 francs. It certainly is a good thing that I received this money as we had only 40 fr. left between us. I had to take the check to the Bank to get it cashed. This afternoon we visited the Colosseum

and would have visited the Forum had it not rain.

June 1, 1910 (Wednesday): (Rome)

We went to St. Peters

and climbed the tower also visited the collection of mosaics, Raphel’s collection and the museum and Sistine Chapel in the Vatican this fore-noon. This afternoon we took a carriage drive out to the catacombs. We visited some models showing ancient Roman buildings and their position. We also visited the baths. After leaving the catacombs we drove along the Appian Way and then returned on our way visiting St. John’s Church.

June 2, 1910 (Thursday): (Rome, Florence)

This fore-noon we visited the Capitol on which stands the Capitoline Museum in various old buildings. The main thing in these museums is the sculpture work the Dying Gaul. This afternoon we did some shopping then Archie and I said good bye to Wilf and Clarence and left for Florence at 6.15 P.M. We arrived at 11.30 and put up at a small hotel near the depot.

June 3, 1910 (Friday): (Florence, Venice)

We got out early this morning and took a walk through the town to the Porta Romana where begins the famous Viale dei Colli. This is said to be one of the prettiest drives in the world and I can well believe that it is. We took a carriage

at the Porta Romana making this drive and entering the City again at the Porta G. Niccolo thence to the church of Santo Croce, which we visited, and to the “Galleria degli Uffizi,” We hurried thru this gallery paying particular attention to Raphael’s “Madonna with the gold finch” and his “Pope Julius II.” We then went thrugh the National Museum. We left for Venice at 2.45 P.M. and arrived there 9.30. We went to a some what modest Hotel for the night. After getting located we walked to the Piazza of St. Mark (S. Marco) and ate supper at a german restaurant. We then hired a gondola and rode around until 1 A.M.

June 4, 1910 (Saturday): (Venice, Milan)

We rode the steam boat to the depot and left our things there then rode back to P. of St. Mark.

Hundreds of pigeons fly around on this “Plaz”

and they are so tame that they will light on your hat or shoulders or hands to get corn.

We went in St. Mark’s cathedrale then through the Palace of the Doges. In the latter place we crossed the Bridge of Sighs. We did some bargaining then hurried to the depot, getting there barely in time to catch our train for Milan at 2 P.M. We arrived in Milan at 7.15 P.M. and put up at the Hotel Schweizer. Post a very moderate priced house. We took a walk this evening and also went to a “Kino”. I bought 2d class ticket to Zurich in Venice. It cost me 46.35 francs.

June 5, 1910 (Sunday): (Milan, Zurich)

Archie and I went through the [Milan] Cathedrale this morning. We climbed to the top

but were unable to get much of a view on account of the stormy condition of the weather. We also visited the “Castello” expecting to see a parade but it wasn’t much of a parade that we saw. We evidently got there too late. I caught a train for Zurich at 12.40 P.M. saying good by to Archie for the last time over here. He leaves for Lausanne to morrow. The scenery through the Alps is very beautiful. Especially interesting though very disagreeable was the ride through the numerous and some very long tunnels on each side and including the St. Gothard Tunnel. We were 16 minutes going through the latter. On arrival at Zurich I checked my grips and went up to meeting. Much to my surprise and discomfort they called on me to speak, although the meeting was almost out when I got there. After meeting Pres. McKay walked to the depot with me to get my grips and I went up to the office to stay.

June 6, 1910 (Monday): (Zurich)

We went out walking on the lake before noon, that is, Bros. Parsons Chamberlain and Pres. McKay and I, and took some pictures. This afternoon we went to buy my ticket. We priced the ticket I wanted both at the depot and Cooks and found that he charged a little more for it. I bought a 3rd class ticket to Brussels for 29.15 francs. I bought me a pair of field glasses also. I left Zurich at 9.18 P.M.

June 7, 1910 (Tuesday): (Brussels)

No one seemed to be at the depot to meet me this morning. I walked out around trying to find some one who could show me the way to Lester’s room. Just as I was about to succeed Bro. Fredrich spied me and we went up to the room where I met Lest and Bro. Thurman. We went out to the field of Waterloo [below] right soon after and stayed out there until after 3 P.M.

Upon returning to the room there was a letter from Ada* for Wilf* and me. She advised me that William* had sent me $400 per check out side of the $425 which he telegraphed. She also wants me to get some things for her and Helen so we went to Fietze’s and bought some silk hose etc. etc. We spent the evening at the room.

*Wilford Young Cannon was Ed’s half-brother, a couple of years younger than Ed. He was the son of George Q. Cannon and Caroline Young Cannon. He was a missionary in the Swiss German Mission from 1909 to 1911. William Tenney Cannon was the full-brother of Ed, but 16 years older. They were children of George Q. Cannon and Eliza Tenney Cannon. Ada, or Emily Ada Young Croxall Cannon was the daughter of Mark Croxall and Caroline Young Croxall who eventually married George Q. Cannon and George Q. adopted Ada. She and William were the same age and were married to each other. They were technically brother and sister, by adoption, but had totally different parents. So Ada and Wilford had the same mother, but different blood fathers; William and Ed had the same mother and same father; and Ed and Wilford had the same father, but different mothers. I am guessing that the money being sent to Ed was part of his inheritance from his father’s estate, who died in 1901. After Ed got home from his mission, William helped Ed buy into the Salt Lake Stamp Company using inherited money from their father’s estate.

June 8, 1910 (Wednesday): (Brussels, Rotterdam)

Les and I went out to the Exposition* this morning but got there too early to get in., and not having sufficient time to wait ‘till the gates were opened returned to town. On our way we visited the “Mannekin” fountain. We met Bro. Thurman by Fietzes and went in and bought some more things then went to the depot. Les and Bro. Thurman left for Liege at about 11 A.M. and I left for Rotterdam about an hour later. Daniel wasn’t in Dordrecht as I expected, having been put in president of the Arnhem Conference. I visited Pres. Thatcher for awhile in the after-noon and arranged for my ticket to Liverpool and got Dan’s address. I telegraphed to Arnhem to see if Dan was at home but didn’t get an answer in time to get out to-night. I went to a “Kiao” with Bro. Millard this evening and received a telegram from Dan when I got home.

*A world fair was held in Brussels in 1910.

June 9, 1910 (Thursday): (Rotterdam, Arnhem)

I left for Arnhem at 7.15 A.M. Dan* didn’t seem hardly like the same fellow, I believe he’s larger than when I last saw him [the photo below was taken in a park in Arnhem].
We took quite a walk before dinner
and in the after-noon talked over home affairs. I left for Rotterdam at 5.15 P.M. and went right to the Grimbsby dock when I arrived. Pres. Thatcher is going to Liverpoool to see Pres. Penrose off. We have the same cabin.

*I believe this may be Daniel Hoagland Cannon, the son of John Q. Cannon, Ed’s oldest half-brother, 29 years his senior, the son of George Q. Cannon and Elizabeth Hoagland. Daniel was three years younger than Ed.

June 10, 1910 (Friday): (Rotterdam, Liverpool)

We should have arrived in Grimbsby at about 9 A.M. but it was so foggy that it was about 3 P.M. before we landed. We got into Liverpool at 6.15 P.M. We went up to the Lord Nelson Hotel!! And got room and supper, then went to head-quarters to a social given for Pres. Penrose. Bro. Joe Kunz and also Bro. Hy Carstensen were on the boat from Rotterdam. They are returning home.

June 11, 1910 (Saturday): (Liverpool)

Bro. A. H. Parkinson [see picture below, posing with some strangers] is going to sail on the Cedric so we fixed it up to travel home together.
There were various little preliminaries pertaining to securing our baggage on the boat necessary before we went aboard at 12.30 P.M. The boat left the stage at 2.30 We have had a fine day and the weather gives promise of a pleasant voyage.

June 12, 1910 (Sunday): (At sea, Queenstown)

We had a fine day. The sea was very smooth all day long. When we got up this morning we were in Queenstown harbor, and the surrounding country afforded a very pleasing scene. As we were leaving the harbor the Mauritania* came in.
Later in the day the Mauritania caught up with, and passed us.
At 10.30 Services were held in the dining room. There is an orchestra on board and it plays very well. They give a little concert at 10.15 A.M. and at 8 P.M.

*The Mauretania was first launched in September 1906 and set the record for fastest transatlantic crossing in 1907, which it held for 22 years.

June 13, 1910 (Monday): (At sea)

We had another fine day. Am reading the “Last Days of Pompeii.” Every one seems to be enjoying themselves. [Ed posing with the same strangers on board.]
June 14, 1910 (Tuesday): (At sea)

The sea became quite rough during the day and there were a great many sea sick. Bro. Parkinson though not right sick hasn’t felt the best.

June 15, 1910 (Wednesday): (At sea)

The weather was worse to-day. There was a strong gale blowing from the N. West all day.

June 16, 1910 (Thursday): (At sea)

The wind is somewhat stronger than yesterday. We have lost a great deal of time and it will evidently be Monday before we land. I finished the “last days of Pompeii” Tuesday evening, “If I were King” yesterday and “Black Arrow” to-day.

June 17, 1910 (Friday): (At sea)

The heavy wind subsided some what during the day making it much more agreeable for some of the passengers.

June 18, 1910 (Saturday): (At sea)

The weather was quite warm during the day and also very calm. There was a concert held in the 2d saloon this evening. I read Rudyard Kipling’s “Kim” yesterday and to-day.

June 19, 1910 (Sunday): (At sea, New York)

This after-noon we saw a whale. About 4 P.M. we saw the first sign of land. The ship docked at 8.45 P.M. [Below, the ship Cedric docked in New York.] We stay a’board to-night.
June 20, 1910 (Monday): (New York)

We went on shore at 7.30 A.M. and had our baggage examined then went up town to the Markwell hotel and got a room. We then went to 126th St., where the elders live and got our ticket for Chicago. This afternoon we did some shopping then went out to Coney Island.

June 21, 1910 (Tuesday): (New York)

We took the up town sight seeing auto this fore-noon and saw the million air row and all the houses on 5th Ave. as far down as about 85th St. Then we went into Central Park and came out at the end on 110th St. thence out to Grant’s Tomb.
Here we stopped and visited the interior. We then returned to Broadway and 23rd by way of Riverside Drive and Broadway. This afternoon we took the down town ride, visiting the Acquarium on our way. We went through lower Broadway, Battery Park, Wall St. and the Bowery, seeing among other things [Lafayette Monument below] the place where Washington delivered his inauguration address. We visited the mission head quarters again this evening.
June 22, 1910 (Wednesday): (New York)

We went over to Brooklyn this fore-noon to visit Bro. Joseph Parkinson, A.H. P’s. uncle. He is laboring in Brookly at present and he’s got his family here. We ate dinner there and spent a good part of the afternoon with them. We went to visit the Navy Yard, but got there too late to get in. So we sat down in a park and talked for some time. On our way home Bro. P. and I went to a show.

June 23, 1910 (Thursday): (New York, Washington, D.C.)

Late last night we discovered that we should have left for Washington at 6.50 P.M. yesterday, in order to be able to use our tickets, so this morning we had to have them changed. We also had our trunks transferred to the B&O Station. We left New York at 11.50 A.M. and after a very hot ride arrived in Washington at 5:50 P.M. We took a room at the Arlington.

June 24, 1910 (Friday): (Washington, D.C.)

Bro. Parkinson and I went to congressman Howell who is A.H.P’s cousin and secretary to the congressman. He took us over to the capitol where we met Claud and saw both Congress and the Senate in session. There are a great many pictures and statues of interest. A picture that impressed me very much, one of the halls, intitled “Westward Ho.” We then went through the Congressional Library. This building [see below] is the finest piece of work I have seen.
After seeing Washington I feel that an American is almost a traitor who comes last with out paying the capital city a visit. We went over to Bro. Howell’s office again and he invited us to dinner. We went over to go up the Washington Monument but it was too late so we stopped and watched a game between the Post Office and the Agriculture department teams. We met Claud Geo. P. and his brother Parley who has just entered West Point and also Nick Morgan at the Arlington then went out to supper together. We also went to a vaudeville show. [See the Andrew Jackson Monument below]
June 25, 1910 (Saturday): (Washington, D.C.)

We went to the Congressman’s office this morning and he took us to visit the President. After shaking hands with Pres. Taft we went through the White House visiting the dining room, said to be the most artistic in the country, the Red room, the Blue room, Recpion hall and the east room. We left Mr. Howell here and visited the Washinton Monument, going to the top. I was some what disappointed in our visit to the building of printing and engraving, not from what we saw, but from what we didn’t see. Our guide hurried us in to a big room where the green backs were printed and hurried us out again and that finished it. After dinner we rode out to Mt. Vernon on the car.
Our visit there proved very interesting. At six o’clock we heard the Marine Band concert on the lawn south of the White House. We met Geo. and Parley Parkinson at the Hotel at 8 P.M. and we went to the Capitol and watched Congress adjourn. They adjourned at 11 P.M.

June 26, 1910 (Sunday):
(Washington, D.C.)

We took a walk this fore-noon and saw Pres. Taft ride by in an Auto, going to church. Before leaving we went to Mr. Howell’s office and said good bye to him and Geo. P. Our train left at 1.22 P.M. for Chicago.

June 27, 1910 (Monday): (Chicago)

We arrived in Chicago at 9.30 A.M. and got a room at the Majestic. I visited the ticket office to find out the party with whom we go to Salt Lake and found that they will be here Wednesday. We took a walk this after-noon and this evening saw Mary Mannering at the jarrick in “A Man’s World.” I enjoyed it very much.

June 28, 1910 (Tuesday): (Chicago)

We met Elders A. Robinson and Bullen this morning and also Wilford Young (son of J. W. Young) who lives in Chicago. We went thru the Swift Packing Co. and also the Libby Food products Co. On our way to the Stock Yards [below]
Mr. Young told me about Zan and Olive living in town, so after dinner I went to Kimball and Sherman’s office and Dan (H.W.S.) Sherman took me out to supper at their home. Paul Kimball came to supper, but Olive was unable to come on account of being unwell. I spent the evening with them.

June 29, 1910 (Wednesday): (Chicago)

I met Olive down town to-day. This after-noon we went thru the Marshall Field Department Store. Bro. Robinson and I went to see Thos. W. Ross in the “Fortune Hunter” at the Olympic. It is a splendid show.
The journal ends there.

Friday, October 30, 2009

EQC: The Holy Land (May 1910)

Edwin Q. Cannon, Wilford Cannon, Clix Wright and Archie Brockbank spent a week in Palestine seeing various sites associated with the Bible, most of them relating to the life of Christ.

May 16, 1910 (Monday): (Jaffa, Jerusalem)

We arrived at Jaffa at about 7 A.M. The captain arranged so that we wouldn’t need to leave some one on the boat, by arranging with landing agent of the Hamburg Am. Line “Reist Bureau” to change our money when we landed, holding him responsible for the same. There is no harbor at Jaffe and it is quite difficult to land. The boats which come out to take passengers ashore are tossed about like egg shells and in boarding one of them from the ship a person must wait his opportunity and jump in at the right moment. The regular agent of the Hamburg Am. Line seems to be a very fine man and he accorded us the best of treatment. Before dinner we walked out to a Russian Monistary supposed to be the tomb of Tabitha. From the tower we got a dandy view of Jaffa and surrounding country. We ate dinner at a german gasthof through the suggestion of Mr. Breisch, the Hamburg agent and the dinner was cheap and good.
We left for Jerusalem at 2 P.M..
Upon arrival we walked from the depot into town and put up at the Hughes Hotel.

May 17, 1910 (Tuesday): (Jerusalem)

We took a walk along the north wall of the city to the Mount of Olives [see below].
On our way up we visited the so called tomb of the prophets. From the hill right by there we got an excellent view of Jerusalem and we could also see the Dead Sea in the distance.
There are a great many chapels and churches on the Mount claiming to occupy the spot where certain occurances took place. In our way down we passed the tomb of the Vergin Mary. This after-noon we went through the church of the Holy Sepulchre. This is a very interesting place, more so to me on account of the enthusiasm with which the priests of the Roman, Greek and Armienian Catholic Churches worship the numerous shrines of the building. It certainly seems improbable, and foolish to me, that such claims as they make for some of these places can be true. All in the one large building is shown Christs tomb, his place of imprisonment and place of crucifiction. Also the tomb of Adam is shown with any number of other things. We visited the Muristan after leaving the church of the Holy Sepulchre. This place was occupied in early times by inns and hospitals of the Frankish Pilgrims. We then walked through the town and walked up to the Mount of Olives again to get an evening view of the city.

May 18, 1910 (Wednesday): (Jerusalem, Bethany, Jericho, Jordan River, Dead

We left for Jericho at 6.30 A.M [see below]. In the party were Mr. and Mrs. Tasker, Miss Tasker, Miss Saxe, Mr. Clark, Mr. Antel and two other gentlemen who’s names I’ve forgotten, and Mr. Forder a missionary who acted as guide.
On our way we passed thru Bethany [see below], the home of Mary and Martha.
Farther down is what is called the apostles spring. We stopped for a while at the Inn of the Good Samaritan where it is said the good man brought the robbed and wounded traveler.
Along in here is to be seen from a prominent point the Greek Monastery of St. George [see below]. It is built almost on a cliff and it is said that Elijah was fed by the ravens in this place.
Farther along we descended in to the Valley of the Jordan. We passed through what is the modern village of Jericho [see below] out to Sultan’s spring (Elisha’s Spring).
This is supposed to be the water that Elisha healed with salt. Back of the spring somewhat to the north west is the ancient Jericho of Joshua’s time. German excivators have made quite an extensive research here and have found the foundation of the wall of this place [see below].
We stayed at the Hotel Belvue where we returned for dinner. At 2 P.M. we left for the Jordan [see below] and Dead Sea. We visited a place on the former identified spot of Christ’s baptism.
At the Dead Sea Wilford, Arch Brockbank, Clarence Wright, Mr. Antel and I went swimming [see below].
It is very like swimming in Great Salt Lake only the water is very bitter. The average specific gravity of the water is 1.166. It contains from 24 to 26% solid material, 7% common salt. The chloride of magnesium gives the water the bitter taste and the chloride of calcium makes the water feel smooth and oily to the touch. The surface of the Dead Sea is 1292 feet below the surface of the Mediteranean. It is 47 miles long, 10 miles at its greatest width and its greatest depth is 1310 ft. The Sea of Galilees is 681 feet below the surface of the Mediterranean depth 137-157 ft. It is 13 miles long and almost 6 miles wide. The Jordan has its source in on Mt. Hermon 1706 ft above the sea. It flows through Lake Huler (7 ft) and Lake Tiberias. The river is some 185 m. long from the Lake of Tiberias to the Dead Sea, although in air line would be little more the 60 m. After supper we sat around and listened to some of Mr. Forder’s stories. He has lived a great many years here in Palestine, seven years of the time east of the Jordan.

May 19, 1910 (Thursday): (Jericho, Jerusalem, Bethlehem)

We returned to Jerusalem this fore-noon over the same road we took to Jericho. We stopped in Bethany and visited the home of Lazerus and also saw the ruins of the house in which Mary and Martha are supposed to have lived. This after-noon we drove out to Bethlehem. We passed Rachel’s tomb and two or three other places of interest on the way. After arriving we first visited the Church of the Nativity. This building is built over what is supposed to be the manger where Christ was laid after his birth. The church is occupied by the Latins, Greeks and Armieniens. There is a soldier kept constantly on guard there to keep the priests of those three churches from quarreling. After leaving the church we walked through the town to where water is taken from the aqueduct for use in Bethlehem. This aqueduct was originally built by Soloman to conduct water from his springs south of Bethlehem, to the temple. We also visited a shop where souveniers are sold and got a few remembrances. Bethlehem is a great place for the manufacture of pearl beads, etc. We drove to David’s well from which point we got a fine view of the shepherds’ fields as well as the fields of Boaz where Ruth is supposed to have done her gleaning.

May 20, 1910 (Friday): (Jerusalem)

To-day was appointed as the time to hold memorials through out the world for the Late King Edward VII* it being the day of his funeral. Wilf and I attended the services in St. George’s chapel at 11 A.M. There were consul representatives from all the leading nations as well as clerical representatives from all the various denominations and churches stationed in Jerusalem present. Today is J. A. Brockbank’s 23rd birthday. This after-noon we visited the Cotton Grotto or so called Solomon’s Quarries. It is a vast cave entered outside the west wall and extending a great way under the city. Emense amounts of rock were quarried from this place and marks are still visibile where crevices were made in the rock in which to drive wood which was then soaked and thru expansion forced off the blocks. We next visited the so called Garden Tomb or Gordon’s Tomb the latter name being give it on account of Gen’l Gordon being the first man of prominence to believe it to be the real tomb in which Christ was laid after his crucifixion. The proofs which they have go very far in the direction of convincing one that this really is the place. We then went to the wailing place of the Jews.
This is where a great many devout jews assemble every Friday after-noon to wail for the departed glory of their city and for the departed power of their people. We left the city after leaving this place, by way of the “Dung” Gate and walked around the south side of the city to Mt. Sion thence home.
On our way we passed a funeral procession. The body was visible through the ends of the coffin which was carried on the shoulders of four men. This evening we visited Fran Schonek’s models of Solomon’s Temple. She shows with a searies of models the various changes which have taken place on the site of the temple since Solomon first built it. She also has a model of the Tabernacle in which the Ark was kept.
*King Edward VII of the United Kingdom died on May 6, 1910.

May 21, 1910 (Saturday): (Jerusalem)

In company with four other Americans we visited the Harem-el-Sheriff on which stands the Dome of the Rock or incorrectly known as the Mosque of Omar.
The Harem-el-Sheriff is the whole large court on which Solomon’s Temple was built and the Mosque stands over the rock upon which the Altar of sacrifice stood. We spent the most part of the fore-noon here. On our way to the hotel we visited the Church of St. Ann and in connection with this the Pools of Bethsada and also the supposed place of Christ’s judgment where the Catholics have erected an orphanage. We intended to visit the hills upon which the fortress of Mizpah was erected.
From this high point it is said one can see the Mederranean as well as the Dead Sea on a clear day. We lost our way and it was so late in the after-noon when we got out to the right road that we decided not to make the attempt. We passed some very interesting old tombs, however, and felt quite well repaid for our after-noon’s wander.

May 22, 1910 (Sunday): (Jerusalem)

I had a bilious spell during the night and got up this morning feeling rather ill. However I went to fore-noon services in the American Church with Wilford. Rev. Fuller, a missionary from India preached the sermon which was rather drawn out, but full of good thots. I spent the after-noon and evening at the hotel.

May 23, 1910 (Monday): (Jerusalem, Jaffa)

We left Jerusalem at 7.40 A.M. after having spent a most enjoyable week there. Mr. Hughes the hotel owner a very fine man treated us well in every way. There was quite an odd collection of guests there. Mr. and Mrs. Paterson (mother) of San Francisco being presbiterians, the son being some dignitary in that church, Miss Saxe who turned out to be a bible teacher, Mr. Tosker who is with his wife and daughter is a church man of the English Church and two other ladies, one of whom is interested in missionary work and the other is a church nurse. These together with us four missionaries made quite a “pious” bunch. Arriving at Jaffa we went to the Gasthaus Frank for dinner and embarked on the Knedivial boat Kasseir for Alexandria. This is the same boat that brought us from Port Said.

Thursday, October 29, 2009

EQC: Greece, Turkey and Egypt (April and May, 1910)

Edwin Q. Cannon, at the end of his service in the Swiss German Mission, took a tour of Europe and the Mediterranean with three other missionaries: Archie Brockbank, Clarence (Clix) Wright and Wilford Cannon, Ed’s half-brother. Wilford was still serving his mission and went back to missionary work following this trip. For one and a half months they traveled to places such as Constantinople, Athens, Cairo, Jerusalem and Rome. Ed’s journal entries and pictures for the first part of this trip, beginning in Vienna, then to Constantinople, Athens and Cairo, follow:

April 21, 1910 (Thursday): (Salzburg, Vienna)

It was a very bad day, raining continuously until this evening. Clarence [Wright] and I went out for a short walk then went to the depot for dinner. We left for Vienna at 1.05 P.M. and Royal Eccles met us at the depot in Vienna at 7.20 P.M. We attended a meeting this evening then went out with Eccles, Tom Giles, Parsons, Newton, and Verne Arnold and visited a swell cafĂ©. It’s a custom here to have to pay 20 Hellers to get in the door after 10 P.M. We had to pay the 20 Hellers. They say Napoleon caused this law to be enacted when he was here to keep his soldiers in at night.

April 22, 1910 (Friday): (Vienna)

This fore-noon Parsons, Wright and I visited the Kunsthistoriscks Museum. There are some very fine paintings in it. This after-noon Pres. McKay, Chas. Rees, Clarence Wright, Richard Newton and I went through the BurgHof Theatre. This is the most beautiful Theatre building on the inside I have ever seen. This evening we went to hear Lohengrin in the Court Opera House.

April 23, 1910 (Saturday): (Vienna)

I got up at 6 A.M and went to the North west Depot with Bro. Pratt and met Wilford.* We came up to the house, Windmuhlgasse 16, and had breakfast. At 9.30 A.M. we held a priestood meeting. Present were, Pres. McKay,** Chas. Rees, Geo. H. Gowans, H.C. Pratt and Royal Eccles of the Austrian Conf[erence], also Bro. Leo Goates who has come down to take the con[ference] in Bro. Rees’ place, F.J. Parsons, Vern Arnold, Wannie Rich and Dick Newton, who are taking a trip, Bro. Bailey of Nurenberg and Bro. Blaymier of Dresden, Bros. H.V. Howell, and J.E. Hill of the Hungarian Con[erence], C.E. Wright, Wilf [Cannon] and I. Also Tom Giles who’s studying music here. This after-noon some of us went out to Kahlberg where we got a good view of the city. We also visited the place where Beethoven composed a number of pieces seeing on our way there a house in which he lived. We went to a light opera “Ziegeunerliebe” by Franz Lehardt to-night.

*Wilford Young Cannon was Ed’s half-brother, the son of George Q. Cannon and Caroline Young Cannon. He was two years younger than Ed and served in the Swiss German Mission from 1909 to 1911.

**Thomas E. (Evans) McKay, at this time age 34 and single, was President of the Swiss German Mission. He was president from 1909 to 1912. He previously served as a missionary in Switzerland and Germany from 1900 to 1903. He was the brother of David O. McKay, later President of the LDS Church. Thomas McKay later served as president of the Ogden Stake, represented Weber County in the Utah State legislature, and served as an Assistant to the Quorum of the Twelve when that position was created in 1941. He served in that calling until his death in 1958.

The picture below is of the participants in the Conference in Vienna. Ed Cannon is on the far right with his hat in his hand.
April 24, 1910 (Sunday): (Vienna)

We met and went through the Rath Haus Museum. The museum contains a collection of manuscripts of music composed by Schubert, Mozart, Beethoven, Wolff, and Muhler and is very interesting as well for its collection of other valuable relics. This afternoon we went out to Schonbrunn, the Emperors residence. The park there is the most wonderful I have ever seen. We held meeting at 5 P.M. Bros. Goates, Howell and I and Pres. McKay did the speaking. This evening some of us went to see Venedig where they are having sort of a fair.

April 25, 1910 (Monday): (Vienna)

We visited a church in which is a picture of the last supper in mosaic. This is one of the best mosaic pieces in the world. This after-noon we went through the museum of Natural History. This evening we heard Selma Kurz in La Traivieffa. She is one of the best singers in Europe. We ate supper at the Spafen brau after.

April 26, 1910 (Tuesday): (Vienna)

We took a sweat bath then went through the King’s Treasury this fore-noon. The jewels stored in the place would certainly make a pile large enough to bury a person – almost. Some of us had our hair cut this afternoon. We went to Aida this evening the stage setting was the most grand I have ever seen.

April 27, 1910 (Wednesday): (Vienna)

Bros. Parsons, Newton, Arnold and Rich left for Budapest this morning early. Pres. McKay left at 9:15 am and we saw him off at the Depot. On our way back we visited the Belvadere, a park in connection with the Palace of Arch Duke Ferdinand. This after-noon while the boys went through the Burghof Theatre, Bro. Rees and I met J. Archie Brockbank at the depot. Later in the afternoon I cut Wilford’s and Bro. Pratt’s hair off. We went to “Das Fursten Kind” by Lehar, but didn’t enjoy it very much.

The picture below is of Ed Cannon, on the left, and I believe Wilford Cannon and Brother Pratt after Ed cut their hair off. I am not sure which one is which, but believe Wilford is on the right.
April 28, 1910 (Thursday): (Vienna)

This morning was spent in visiting the Modern Art Gallery and St. Stevans Church. Archie B[rockbank] and I climbed the tower of the church and there got a good view of the city. In the afternoon we went out to the central Friedhof with Tom Giles and a young lady friend of his. We saw the graves of a number of famous composers, among them being Mozart, Beethoven, Muhler, J. Straus, Schubert and Wolf. This evening we heard “Hoffmanns Erzahlungen” in the Opera house. It was simply great. The primadona has a very clear beautiful voice.

April 29, 1910 (Friday): (Vienna)

During the fore-noon we went over to Tom Giles’ room and he played for us a while. We then visited the Turkish consul and had our pass ports vised. After dinner we did some shopping and this evening we went to Madame Butterfly in the Opera house. Selma Kurze sang the leading role.

April 30, 1910 (Saturday): (Vienna, Budapest)

Archie Brockbank, C. E. Wright, Wilford [Cannon] and I left for Budapest at 6.15 A.M. We arrived at 12.15 and went to dinner then looked Bro. Hill up. We found his room, but he wasn’t there. We walked over the Danube over the Elizabeth bridge and climbed the hill a little, but the atmosphere was too hazy to get a very good view of the town. We walked up the river on the even side passed the kings palace then crossed over to the parlament building. We walked through it then went to Bro. Hill’s room and found him and Bros. Kent and Davenport. They took us to a Veg for supper. Clarence, Wilford and I went with Bros. Kent and Davenport to stay and Archie went with Bro. Hill.

May 1, 1910 (Sunday): (Budapest, Belgrade)

We caught the train for Belgrade at 7.20 A.M. arriving there at 2.50 P.M. We went to a restraunt and it being a little late, all they could bring us was lamb so we ordered that. Three of us were brought cold rost pork and the only mutton brought was brought to Clarence in the form of a sheep head. After dinner we walked through the fortifications. They were quite picturesque, but sadly dilapidated. Judging by the way things are conducted in the manner of defence, it would have been an easy thing in her trouble of a year ago for Austria to have beaten the Serbians. We went to a hotel for supper, then to the depot and waited for the train, which left at 11 P.M. The train was quite crowded and we had some little trouble in securing places.

May 2, 1910 (Monday): (Belgrade, on the train, passed through Sofia)

We rode all day. It certainly was interesting to notice the change in temperature as we went along. Last night it was quite cold, but it became quite oppressive in the after-noon and evening. Right before noon we passed through Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria. Part of the country passed through reminded me somewhat of our western valleys and mountains.

May 3, 1910 (Tuesday): (Constantinople)

We arrived in Constantinople at 7.50 A.M. There was a big company of porters who tried to take our gripps away from us. The custom officers hardly looked through our gripps. This is quite a change to the state of affairs before the change of government, we picked out a hotel porter who could talk German and we took a cab to the Hotel D’Anglefre, but it was full, so we went to the Hotel L’Athenia. We got pension there for 9 francs. We spent the fore-part of the day looking up a boat for Athens. We finally found the agency of a boat sailing Thursday so we booked second class for 30 francs. This didn’t include meals. Later in the day we went through some of the bazzars, then walked up to a high tower by the war department and from the top of this got a good view of the city. Being tired out from our journey we went to bed early.

May 4, 1910 (Wednesday): (Constantinople)

We walked through the town bargaining at some of the shops. We visited the Old Seraglio, an old ruin and fortress on the point formed by the Sea of Marmara and the Golden Horn. This used to be the palace of the sultans but is now used as a barrack. Also in the grounds is a Museum and some other buildings of interest. A very good view is to be had of Scoutari on the Asiatic side. Pera the European quarter, and of the mouth of the Bosphorus from Seraglio point. From here we walked to the Ahamed Mosque and went on the inside of it. This mosque was built 1608-14. This is situated right by where the Hippodrome used to be on the open place outside the mosque yard is an obelisk of Egyptian syenite. This was constructed in Heliopolis by Thotmes III the greatest of all the warrior Kings of Egypt in the 6th century B.C. The obelisk was brought to Constantinople by Theodosius the Great after his victory over Maximus in 388 A.D. There are I, I think, only three others now in existence. One in London, one in Egypt and Cleopatra’s needle in New York. We also visited the Mosque of St. Sophia. This was originally the Church of St. Sophia. It was very probably first built by Constantine, or started by him and built by his son Constantius. It was burnt down in 404 A.D. The second church was burnt down in 532 A.D. The third building on the 26th of Dec. 537 A.D. being built by Justinian. “When Constantinople was captured by the Turks on May 29th 1453 the Janisaries hastened to St. Sophia to sieze the great store of gold, silver, and precious stones which report said was concealed there in the catacombs. They broke the doors open, seized the gold and silver ornaments of the church, and divided among themselves the men and women who had sought shelter in the sacred building. Towards noon, Mohammed the conqueror entered the city by to the top Kapau and rode straight to the church of St. Sophia. There he dismounted and entered the building. By his order one of the court Nlemas ascended the pulpit and recited a prayer and the conqueror prostrated himself on the marble table that had been the altar and gave thanks for the victory. It has remained a mosque ever since. This after noon we went through the Bosporus as far as Kavak. This is a most beautiful ride. Both sides are covered with trees and there are a great number of fine residences on each side, especially on the European. A number of the Embassies have summer palaces along the shore. The Sultans Palaces is very beautifully situated on the European side, not so far from the entrance. We paid special note to the place where Darius is supposed to have crossed with his armies on a bridge of boats. From Kavak we could see the Black Sea entrance. The Cyrean Rocks or Sympleades the place where myth tells of the Argonauts under the leadership of Jason had their narrow escape. As a sign as to whether they could safely go through a dove was turned loose and as she flew between the rocks which opened then closed together. She lost some of her tail feathers, but was otherwise uninjured. The Argonauts taking this as a favorable omen went through with only a slight damage to some of the armaments on the stern of their boat. We took a short walk this evening.
A street scene in Constantinople.

An ocean view from Constantinople.
May 5, 1910 (Thursday): (Constantinople)

We went down to the quay to find the boat we were to sail on, but it’s not having landed we went to the depot and took the train to Seven Towers. Below, Ed Cannon on the the train.
This is the Marmara end of the wall which reaches from the Sea of Marmara to the Golden Horn a distance of about 4 ½ miles. This is a very interesting place, the towers having served as a fort and prison for both the Turks and Christians.
There is a splendid view of the wall and the town from the top of one of these towers. Upon returning to town we ate dinner at the hotel and took our things to the boat. It is certainly an interesting experience jewing the hotel people down and keepin the porters and roustabouts out of the way. The boat pelops should have sailed at 5 P.M. but didn’t get out until about 8 o’clock. Before leaving we had to have our grips examined again, and let them see our passports to register us as leaving. My tickets so far have cost me as follows: Vienna – Budapest 3rd class 8.70 Kronen. Budapest – Constantiople 2d Class 79.00 francs.

May 6, 1910 (Friday): (Boat from Constantinople to Athens)

We passed through the Dardanelles or Hellespont this fore-noon. We noticed the place where Xerxes is supposed to have crossed with his army on a bridge of boats. It has been windy, but otherwise good. All three of the boys have been inclined not to feel well. I haven’t noticed the least discomfort.

May 7, 1910 (Saturday): (Athens)

We sighted the Acropolis this fore-noon at about 11 A.M. and anchored in the harbor at Piraeus about noon. There were about a hundred little boats waiting to take passengers to shore, and they did considerable shouting in their endeavors to make a bargain to take some one to shore. We chose a boat conducted by a man who could speak a few words of English. He took us and our baggage to shore, and carried the baggage through the custom house on arrival for 4 francs. When we were about half way to shore Clarence discovered that he had left his money which was in his pocket book, on the boat. This gave us quite a scare, but he recovered it by going back to the ship. He had left it under his pillow in his berth. We got a hack to Athens for 6 francs and put up at the Hotel de Paris for 2 ½ fr. per night. The first thing we did was to get dinner, then we went up to the Acropolis, passing the Agbra and the Sower of the Winds. After entering the gate of the Acropolis we were all unable to suppress exclamations of enthusiasm at the magnitude, and beauty of the work.

Even the fact that all the buildings or ruins are composed of the finest white marble is enough to arouse the greatest wonder and astonishment and added to that the still greater fact of their historical relation, make them the most interesting ruins a person can find. After spending some time on the hill we came down and went over to the prison of Socrates. From there we watched the Acropolis until after sunset. We walked from there up the hill of Muses and saw the monument erected by Philopappos. We then walked down to town passing the Theseum on our way.

May 8, 1910 (Sunday): (Athens)

This fore-noon we walked up to the top of the Lycabettus on which stands a Greek chapel. From here we got a good view of the whole surrounding country. We walked from there to the new stadium. This is erected in a hollow formed by three hills. It is in the same place as the old one which was built in the 2d century by Herodes Atticus, that is Herodes Atticus provided it with the tiers of seats. This place was originally leveled off for the purpose of holding games by Lycurgus in 331 B.C. A Greek gentleman named Averoff had the place re-dressed with marble seats in 1896 The Olympiac games of some 3 or 4 years ago were held here.* This after-noon we visited the ruins of the Odeum, the theatre of Dionysus, the Olympium then went up to the Acropolis again and went through the museum there. We also climbed up on the rocks called Mars Hill where Paul preached to the Athenians.

*The 1896 Summer Olympics were the first Olympics held in the modern era. The 1900 Summer Olympics were held in Paris and what are called the “Intercalated Games of 1906” were held in Athens. They were intended to be intermediate games in between internationally organized games. They were considered to be Olympic Games at the time, but the medals are not now officially recognized by the IOC.

May 9, 1910 (Monday): (Athens)

We took the train out to Cephisia and from there walked up to the top of Mt. Pentelicus from which we got a dandy view of the plains of Marathon and a number of Islands of the coast.

On our way up and down we passed the marble quarries from which the famous Grecian marble is taken.

Two tortoises they found in the hills.

May 10, 1910 (Tuesday): (Athens and boat to Alexandria)

I went to Piraeus this morning and bought our tickets. The fellows came out a little after-noon and we boarded our ship for Alexandra. She pulled anchor at 3 P.M. Our voyage so far has been very pleasant. Our boat the Reine Olga of the Russian Line is a palace compared with the one with which we came from Constantinople.

May 11, 1910 (Wednesday): (Boat between Athens and Alexandria)

Our sojourne on the boat to-day was very pleasurable. The weather has been fine.

May 12, 1910 (Thursday): (Alexandria, Cairo)

After a smooth voyage we landed at Alexandria at noon. Our trip over cost me 88.10 francs second class. We paid a porter 18 fr. To take us through the custom house and to the depot with a carriage. Our train not leaving for Cairo until 4 P.M. we walked out to see a little of the city. A guide followed us for a long way trying his best to urge us to hire him. Alexandria seems from the little we saw of it very much like Constantinople in its manner of people, but there seems to be much more order, this being due to English influences. We arrived in Cairo at 7.45 P.M. and went to the Bristol Hotel. We got good rooms and pension for 8 s. per day.

May 13, 1910 (Friday): (Cairo)

We hired a dragoman (Smaida Abdalla). This fore-noon we visited the mosque of Sultan Hasan. This has a very fine Bronze door with inlayed silver copper and gold. The stone used in this structure is taken from the Pyramid of Cheops. It formed the smooth outer covering. We then visited the tombs of the Mameluks? The alibaster mosque the citadel is interesting on account of the great amount of alibaster used.

The view of Cairo from Here is very good. We went thru some of the Bazzars before dinner. This afternoon we visited the oldest house in Cairo then the acquarium and the zoo.

We also drove over to the Nile and visited the place where Moses is supposed to have been found in the bull rushes. Our ride from Alexandria yesterday cost us 11.40 fr. each 2d class.

May 14, 1910 (Saturday): (Cairo)

This morning we got up early and met our dragoman at 6.50. We caught the car and rode out to the pyramids of Ghizeh. The dragoman had arranged for camels for us and they were waiting for us when we got off the car. We rode them up to the foot of the Great Pyramid. Three guides, or helpers were provided for each one of us to ascend to the top. The blocks of stone are on an average of 3 ft. high. The view we got from the top was not very good on account of the hazy atmosphere.

After the descent we rode around to the sphinx and went through the granite temple to the Southwest of it.

We then rode along the edge of the desert to the pyramids of Sachara. These are at a distance of about 8-10 miles from those of Gizeh.

We went through the tomb of King Teh then ate our dinner in a Bedouin house and after resting a while after the dinner went through the tomb of the sacred bulls. There are 24 sarcophagi in this emense under ground cavern. It is almost beyond comprehension how the people of that early date were able to move such emanse pieces of granite. After seeing this tomb we returned to Gizeh, taking a route over the desert to the pyramid of Men-Kau Ra going over what is called the petrified forest. In the latter named pyramid we visited the very interesting tombs. Our camel ride completely tired us out.

May 15, 1910 (Sunday): (Cairo, Port Said)

We fixed our affairs up at the Hotel early this morning and then paid a hurried visit to the Egyptian National Museum. Having such a short time we were compelled to walk through it with out being able to devote any special attention to any of the objects. We left for Port Said at 11 A.M. The fare over there was 47 Egyptian piastres or 12.20 fr. And the trip took about 3 ½ hours. The line leads for a long way along the Suez Canal. We hired a anan to transport us to the Khadivial steamer and when we got aboard and tried to pay our passage in german 100 mark bank notes they refused to take them and we had just about given up going and were about to leave the ship when I asked the captain to help us by taking the money himself and making it right with the agent. He wouldn’t do this, but he asked the agent to let us go on condition that one of us go ashore and leave the others on board while the one made the trip. We agreed to this. The 2d class was full by this time so had to ride 1st class. The sea was rather rough during the fore-part of the evening.